I looked out the bus window at the bank as we rolled past and tried to picture a sporting goods store there. Then I tried to picture 10-year-old Ricky walking out the door carrying a bowling ball.
We were on the Q53 making our way along Woodhaven Boulevard, and as I began to ruminate over the idea that the average person doesn't own a bowling ball anymore (the way everyone has a baseball glove and a tennis racquet), Ricky was already tossing out a stream of other childhood tidbits as part of our Howard Beach throwback tour.The two of us had traveled into Queens from where we were staying in Manhattan by taking two trains and now this bus, to be followed by a lengthy stroll. The further the bus traveled into Ricky's old neighborhood, the more it became the nay-buh-hood.
"Gotti used to hang out along here," Ricky said, pointing to a strip of commerce.
Yes, he was referring to John Gotti, and the flavors of the area, both architectural and culinary, were exactly what you would expect in a fabled mob town. While during Ricky's childhood there had been a mix of Jews and Italians, it seemed the Jews were mostly gone (the Pastrami King is now named Sapienza who is also a purveyor of bagels), so the boxy-yet-elaborate houses we passed were all 100 percent decorated for Christmas. And I mean DECORATED FOR CHRISTMAS. This is a place where statues of the Virgin Mary are out all year long, so Christmas requires a big, extravagant step up.
Ricky's part of town consisted of apartment buildings, some of which had rows of detached garages. He grew up in an era of stickball and stoop ball and improvised playing space. ("Four garages was a first down.")
We walked past playgrounds, his old elementary school, a strip mall containing Waldbaum's and places to eat where Ricky and his friends used to go for lunch on school days. (Yes, young people, elementary school children could leave by themselves to buy lunch in a shopping center.)
We walked along routes Ricky took as a kid and past bus stops. ("The Q41 takes you right to the A train.") Everything in view was immaculately maintained without a splash of graffiti to be seen anywhere.
We wound our way along to the highlight of the day, which was New Park Pizzeria. Eating at this 55-year-old, family-owned restaurant is a life-changing pizza experience, and you will never be able to eat pizza anywhere else for the rest of your life. Walk up to the counter and order. No one gets toppings. No one. It's just dough, cheese and sauce. Crowd your way into a table and enjoy.After this meal, we were ready to walk a bit more. Remodeled houses sat squeezed into tiny lots with their Santa Clauses and reindeer and crèches crammed onto every available inch.
"Crazy Joe Gallo used to give out candy," Ricky said as we passed a corner house made of brick. And then he corrected himself. "No, it was his brother."
The neighborhood ended at an overgrown field. Even though we were the only people out walking, Ricky leaned in and lowered his voice.
"They used to find bodies all the time in these high weeds," he said.
And with that, we ended our tour and got back on the bus.
